The double-breasted suit, a symbol of timeless elegance, is making a strong resurgence in modern fashion. Whether you’re aiming for a refined, vintage look or a sharp contemporary style, wearing a double-breasted suit is all about confidence and understanding the details that set it apart. Here’s a guide on how to rock this classic piece with flair.
Choose the Right Fit
The fit is everything when it comes to a double-breasted suit. Traditionally, this style of suit is designed to give a structured, broader look to the shoulders and a more defined waistline. For a modern approach, aim for a slim, tailored fit that complements your body shape without being overly tight. Avoid excess fabric around the chest or waist, as this can make the suit appear boxy.
If you’re going for a contemporary look, opt for a jacket with a shorter length and slimmer lapels. For those seeking a more traditional style, a slightly longer jacket with wider lapels will give you that classic 1940s appeal. No matter which route you take, make sure the jacket hugs your shoulders comfortably and that the sleeves stop just above the wrist to showcase a hint of your shirt cuff.
Pay Attention to the Lapels
The lapels of a double-breasted suit are often wider than those on a single-breasted suit, adding to its formal, powerful appearance. Peak lapels are the most common style and they project authority, elongating the torso and enhancing the overall silhouette. To make the most of this, choose a lapel width that is proportional to your body type. If you’re taller and broader, you can go for wider lapels, but if you have a smaller frame, stick with a more moderate width to avoid overwhelming your proportions.
Get the Buttoning Right
One of the key features of a double-breasted suit is its unique button arrangement. Typically, you’ll see either a “6×2” or a “4×2” button configuration, with six or four buttons on the front of the jacket, two of which are functional. The golden rule for double-breasted suits is to always button the top functional button and leave the bottom one undone. This helps maintain the clean lines and structure of the jacket, giving it a sharp, polished look.
When seated, you can unbutton the jacket for comfort, but be sure to fasten it again when you stand up. The double-breasted suit looks best when worn closed, as this maintains its formality and signature silhouette.
Choose the Right Fabric
Fabric choice plays a crucial role in the overall appearance of your double-breasted suit. For a timeless look, opt for high-quality wool, which works well in various seasons and provides a refined texture. For summer, consider lightweight fabrics like linen or cotton, which allow for better breathability while maintaining the structure of the suit.
If you’re feeling adventurous, you can explore different textures like tweed for a vintage feel, or experiment with bolder patterns like pinstripes or checks for a more striking, modern look. Just remember, the key to rocking a double-breasted suit is to balance boldness with sophistication.
Master the Accessories
A double-breasted suit naturally exudes formality, so your accessories should complement this refined aesthetic. Start with a crisp, well-ironed dress shirt in white or light blue, which will act as a clean backdrop to the suit’s boldness. A classic tie, ideally one that is solid-colored or features a subtle pattern, should be chosen to enhance the elegance of the suit without clashing with its structure.
Consider wearing a pocket square to add a touch of personality. A simple white silk pocket square is a safe and classic choice, but you can also opt for a color that contrasts with the suit for a more modern twist. Lastly, don’t forget polished dress shoes, preferably in leather. Oxford or brogue styles work best to complete the look with sophistication.
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