Autumn 2019

52 By Alison Brinkworth Sitting on the border between Brazil and Argentina, Iguazu Falls is one of the most spectacular waterfalls in the world, Alison Brinkworth explores why a visit to these cascades is such an unforgettable holiday. Is this the most luxurious waterfall experience in the world? There’s something unbelievably exhilarating about the light touch of fresh spray from a waterfall on your face amid the roaring sound of furious water plunging 82 metres. Here I was teetering on the edge of the Devil’s Throat - but it felt more like heaven. Iguazu Falls and its peak of Garganta del Diablo (or Devil’s Throat) lie directly on the border between Brazil and Argentina in the heart of a gloriously luscious national park, rich with tropical jungle, rainforest, exotic birds and wildlife including playful monkeys roaming free. Reaching the precipice of such a magnificent natural phenomenon as Iguazu Falls did more than just make my heart race faster with wonder; it was a life-affirming, unforgettable moment that makes you realise just how beautiful the world is. It puts Niagara Falls in the shade, despite being lesser known globally, partly due to its location further afield in South America. Iguazu is actually a chain of 275 cascading waterfalls that stretch over nearly two miles with the Devil’s Throat as it’s mesmerising focal point. The protected parkland around it means there isn’t a casino just off camera, but a series of boardwalk trails that make it easy for visitors to make a gentle walk to magnificent views above and below the falls on the Argentinian side. There’s also an easy to reach lookout on the Brazilian side of the river, which takes you under the stunning Salto Floriano section before a panoramic view of Garganta del Diablo from afar. This easy accessibility to such grandeur in both countries is part of the adventure and many people cross the border to ensure they get a view from both sides. Paraguay is even close at hand, to the west, as the three countries share the same waters along with a common cultural Guarani history. While there are sublime views from Brazil, the Argentinian side offers something a little more unusual with spectacular low and high walkways at the top and bottom of the Falls, which allow you to get closer to the water’s edge. Around every corner is a tropical paradise with unusual birds and butterflies flying past or a naughty coati, a relation of the raccoon, snuffling around the tourists for food. When entering Parque Nacional Iguazu in Argentina, you can walk through the Sendero Verde path into the park or there’s a tourist train every 30 minutes that travels on to Cataratas train station, where trails start at the bottom of the falls. The train travels further on from Cataratas to Garganta del Diablo station, where a scenic and thankfully flat walk of just over half a mile brings you to the unforgettable mouth of the waterfall. This train route does get busy and there can be long waits, so get up early or catch the last few of the day, between 3pm and 4pm, if you want to miss the rush. Alternatively, there’s a one and a half mile undemanding walk if the queues are too long for the train. One way to get ahead of the queues and